Friday, Feb 26, 2010 at 07:46
I use a similar pressure for smooth, unbroken bitumen but lower
pressures for broken or uneven bitumen that you will get on 'C' roads. As I am on those roads quite frequently. I think many of the other comments are for higher graded roads.
For broken dirt I like to take
pressures down
well to account for the shocks into the car and trailer. If you have breakables in your trailer or chassis components that carry, like a long chassis, I would rather keep the shock rating low with low speeds but more importantly, low
pressures.
High
tyre pressures won't have the contact area length that gives you directional stability on dirt and gravel. Frequently we hear of cars that skid on gravel and roll over. The
tyre pressure and speed combination would be at fault, except in a case perhaps of a slippery water laden surface. In Australia ee have some sand surfaced tracks that are non-wetting sands, that allow you to slip off the camber, they need deep tread to grip too.
With the paragraph above, I prefer to drop front
pressures even to mid 20s if there are inconsistent dirt surfaces, and 4psi more for the rear. The same goes for the trailer.
Keep the shocks down, keep the
pressures down, keep the speeds down. Give yourself a longer tread contact for directional stability as
well.
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